Is ‘Vegan Leather’ Actually Sustainable?
In recent years, the fashion industry has been undergoing a transformation. Consumers are no longer just looking for aesthetics. They would like to know impacts of a product on the planet, animals, and the production chain. In this transformation, vegan leather stands out as a significant alternative to animal leather. Developed as an alternative to animal leather, vegan leather attracts more and more interest. However, we come up with the same question over and over. Is vegan leather actually more sustainable?
There is no definitive answer to this question. The answer differs based on the kind of material, the manufacturing process, and the life cycle. Although certain vegan leathers lessen the load on the environment, others introduce new issues due to their microplastic composition. In other words, ethical superiority does not necessarily indicate environmental superiority. Nevertheless, there is a significant fact: Vegan leather remains an ethically meaningful alternative. The environmental costs, on the other hand, signify a domain of engineering that holds potential for enhancement.
In this article, we will discuss all aspects of vegan leather. Together, we will explore the risks of synthetic materials, plant-based innovations, alerts about greenwashing, and an inspiring case from Türkiye. Enjoy reading!
In the most fundamental sense, vegan leather is a broad term that describes leather-like materials made without the use of animal hides. Although it may initially appear to be a singular category, it actually covers a wide spectrum. The ecological impact may also vary considerably depending on the production techniques used. Therefore, it is critical to consider this variety while assessing vegan leather.
At present, two main types are distinguished in the market. The first type constitutes synthetic-based vegan leather. Produced from PVC and polyurethane, these materials have been promoted for several years as the closest alternative to animal leather. They were swiftly adopted by fashion brands due to their flexible structure, ease of adaptation into the desired texture, and low costs. Nevertheless, the plastic nature of these materials has sparked environmental discussions. Their degradation processes are lengthy. Their potential for microplastic generation poses a considerable threat.
The second type is plant-based vegan leather. These are made of natural resources like pineapple fibers, mushrooms, apple pulps, cacti, and pomegranate peels. These materials generally has the goal of upcycling agricultural waste. They offer a valuable option in terms of the circular economy. These innovative materials play a vital role in sustainable fashion research.
The primary factor for the rise of vegan leather is the ethical aspect. The use of animal hides in the fashion industry is underpinned by a large-scale industry behind the scenes. This industry is subject to considerable criticism, not just for its treatment of animals but also for its impact on the environment. According to the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations, the livestock sector accounts for approximately 14.5% of global GHG emissions. This is quite a significant percentage. It is close to the total for the entire transportation industry. The leather industry is directly linked to this chain. The same reports reveal that livestock farming also constitutes a significant load on the environment in terms of water consumption, land use, and chemical waste generation.
These reports reveal the ethical cost of animal hides. On the other hand, the debates on animal welfare are not limited to activist circles. The State of Fashion by McKinsey reveals that Gen Z, in particular, attaches more significance to ethical criteria when making purchasing decisions. Young consumers question animal-based manufacturing processes and are more inclined towards alternative materials.
Vegan leather thus establishes a significant difference from an ethical perspective. Although its manufacturing processes may be controversial, eliminating animal use is a clear gain in terms of ethics. While this does not ensure perfection in terms of environment, it does enhance its ethical standing. The difference is even more prominent in plant-based vegan leathers. Upcycling agricultural waste and providing an alternative to the animal supply chain strengthen the ethical framework.
Ultimately, while vegan leather is not without its flaws, it creates a potential for ethical enhancement. The increasing demand from consumers in this respect drives the fashion industry to adopt more transparent and responsible manufacturing models.
Click here to check out our blog post titled ‘What is Sustainable Fashion?’
The ethical merit of the vegan leather does not imply that it has a minimal environmental footprint. Particularly, vegan leather derived from plastic, such as PVC and polyurethane, provide alternatives to animal leather; however, they incur ecological costs due to significant energy consumption, chemical processing, and prolonged decomposition periods. Therefore, the "vegan" label does not necessarily mean "eco-friendly." At this point, the risk of greenwashing arises. Numerous brands market products made of synthetic materials as "natural" or "sustainable," yet they fail to offer adequate transparency regarding the manufacturing process and its environmental impacts. Plant-based vegan leathers are revolutionizing this perspective. Materials produced from agricultural waste such as pineapple leaves, apple pulps, mushroom fibers, or pomegranate peels reduce waste, while also creating an actual circular value with a lower carbon footprint. Despite the ongoing challenges, the sustainable future of the sector primarily relies on these solutions.
As the quest for sustainable materials intensifies, plant-based vegan leathers have achieved considerable momentum in both the scientific community and the fashion industry. These new-generation materials not only lessen the carbon footprint generated by animal hides but also repurpose agricultural waste into valuable raw materials. For example, Piñatex, produced from pineapple leaves, AppleSkin, which utilizes waste generated by the apple juice industry, or mycelium leather models made of mushroom roots have been tested and presented in collections by major brands.
The primary benefit of these materials lies in their production processes, which consume less energy compared to conventional synthetic leathers and diminish reliance on plastic. Also, the recycling potential of these materials are higher. Not every type of plant-based leather is the same; factors such as durability, water consumption, and chemical processing differ from one brand to another. However, the overall trend is obvious: the industry is transitioning away from plastic-based options and embracing circular biomaterials.
POMECO is the most remarkable initiative in the vegan leather industry based in Türkiye. Founded by a young entrepreneur, İpek Tüysüzoğlu, POMECO upcycles pomegranate peel waste, abundant in the Mediterranean region, into a circular material. This organic waste, generated in large quantities every year by the pomegranate juice and food industries, generally becomes an environmental liability due to methane emissions unless it is composted. The biomaterial developed by POMECO gives this waste a second life.
This new generation vegan leather, where pomegranate peel fibers are combined with natural binders, is completely animal-free and has a low carbon footprint. The unique molecular structure created by pomegranate fibers enhances the durability of the material, while also providing natural antibacterial features, and strong UV resistance. Minimizing water consumption during the manufacturing process and reducing petroleum-based input by 90% position this bio-leather as a considerably less harmful alternative to the environment.
POMECO holds great significance as it expands the vegan leather discussion from merely being a 'non-animal alternative' to a much broader perspective. Upcycling waste pomegranate peels into a high-performance material reveals that the circular economy can find a tangible response in Türkiye. POMECO serves as an outstanding example, reminding us that innovation in sustainable materials entails not just the creation of superior products, but also the design of a fairer, cleaner, and more inclusive future.
The vegan leather issue is not a black-and-white debate. Plant-based or biotechnological alternatives still result in certain costs in terms of the environment. Issues including the use of synthetic ingredients, energy consumption, and material durability require improvement. Therefore, vegan leather is not without its flaws; however, it offers a more ethical, lower-carbon, and more innovative alternative to the existing animal leather system.
Consumer behavior is swiftly altering throughout the world. The younger generation question how a product is manufactured and what is left behind. Brands are also embracing bio-based materials, laboratory innovations, and recycled materials to adjust to this alteration. This transformation is reshaping the future of fashion as well as the future of materials science.
The strength of vegan leather solutions comes from diversity. Research on various biomaterials, including mushroom mycelium, apple pulps, cacti, and pineapples, reveals an emerging ecosystem, rather than a single solution. This diversity offers a great opportunity in terms of sustainability, supply security, and design.
Our role as consumers is obvious: To question the genuine composition of materials, production processes, and environmental impacts without being misled by greenwashing. While vegan leather is an ethically stronger alternative, each product has a different level of sustainability. Therefore, it is critical to refer to labels, independent certifications, and brands that share transparent data.
In conclusion, vegan leather is not without its flaws in today’s world. However, it is a considerable alternative in search of production models that do not rely on animal leather. It provides a means to shift away from dependence on animal leather, to repurpose waste streams, and to support the use of innovative materials. Initiatives such as POMECO embody what this new era might look like. A cleaner, fairer, and smarter manufacturing model is possible. This transformation will speed up by our preferences.